Lobuche East and Ama Dablam (October-November 1996)

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In the fall of 1996 I went to Nepal with Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston to climb Ama Dablam (6856m). Located in Khumbu south of Everest, Ama Dablam is often considered the most beautiful mountain in the world. To acclimatize we first climbed Kala Patthar (5643m), an easy peak that I had already climbed in the 70s, then Lobuche East (6119m). On Ama Dablam I had to stop 200m below the summit due to light finger frostbite.




The Russian-made helicopter that took us from Kathmandu to Lukla.

A helicopter parked on the ground

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View of Lobuche East from Pheriche and at the top (with Ama Dablam in the background).


View of Ama Dablam from Base Camp. Our climbing route was the Southwest Ridge on the right.


Another view of Ama Dablam from the north.

A mountain with clouds in the sky

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Another view of Ama Dablam (right) with Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse (from left to right).

A mountain range with snow on the top

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Ama Dablam through clouds.

A mountain peak in the clouds

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View from Camp 1.

A mountain range with clouds above

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The narrow and uncomfortable Camp 2.



Mixed rock-ice-snow climbing between Camps 2 and 3.


Ama Dablam's summit pyramid. I stopped at the isolated rock under the summit with early signs of finger frostbite. 

A mountain with snow on it

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