Makalu (Spring
2001)
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At 8,463 meters Makalu is the 5th highest
mountain of the world. It is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet. In
the spring of 2001 I joined an expedition led by Guy Cotter (from New-Zealand)
to climb Makalu. See:
- http://www.adventureconsultants.com/adventure/Makalu2001Dispatches/,
- http://www.jmilne.org/mntn/Nepal01/Nepal01a.html.
The 12-member team (including 4 climbing Sherpas) was very strong, with several members having
already climbed 8000m peaks. For me, it was a first attempt on an 8000m
mountain. Soon after having successfully climbed
Muztagh Ata (7,546 m) in the summer 2000 and solo
climbed Aconcagua (6,959m) in January 2001, I had great expectations.
However, on Makalu, I was unable to acclimatize properly and I felt tired and energyless most of the time. In the end I could not climb
beyond the elevation of 7000m (slightly above our Camp 2), while the most
difficult section of the climb (the northeast ridge to the summit beyond Makalu
La) was still lying above. Even if I had felt in good shape, I do not think
that I would have been able to reach the summit. This mountain was too hard for
me. Only 3 members of the expedition, Guy Cotter, Takashi Ozaki and Lhakpa Dorje, successfully
reached the summit. Lhakpa Dorje
was the first climber in history to summit Makalu twice. (At that time Takashi
was already a famous mountaineer. Sadly, 10 years later, in May 2011, he died
on Everest.)
Location of Makalu.
Climbing route: it was the 'classic' route used by
French climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, who first summited Makalu
on May 15, 1955. After Makalu La, the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse, the route follows the northeast ridge to the
summit.
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Group photo of some members of the
team. Takashi (standing) is the 3rd
from the left, Guy the 4th, and me the 6th.
Arrival in Tumlingtar.
In Tumlingtar
with Himalayan mountains on the horizon.
Along the trek to Makalu:
- Village above Khanbari.
- Tashigaon.
- Helicopter bringing equipment for another
expedition at Yangla Kharka (3560m).
- Peaks above Yangla Kharka.
- Our camp above Yangla Kharka.
Getting closer to Makalu.
Makalu seen from the South Makalu Base
Camp (5000m), with Barun Pokhari
(lake) in the photo on the left. (We set our own BC
further up, on the western side of the mountain.)
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Another view of Makalu from the Barun Glacier. (I took this picture
in autumn
2012, on my way to Sherpani Col.)
The ravine leading to our BC on the
western side of Makalu, seen from the opposite side of the Barun
Glacier. (I also took this picture in autumn
2012 while climbing toward Sherpani Col.)
Our Base Camp (5700m).
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Views from BC.
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Every big climb in the Nepalese Himalaya begins
with a Buddhist puja ritual at BC led by a Lama, in
which the Sherpas (along with the foreign climbers)
ask permission from the Gods to climb the mountain and invite blessings for the
climb. The puja includes burning juniper, making
offerings (food and drinks), bowing, and chanting.
- Setting prayer flags and offerings before the puja.
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- Burning juniper, making offerings, bowing, and
chanting.
Between BC and Camp 1.
Left: a short rocky/icy section above BC. Right: Reaching the plateau where we
set Camp 1.
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Camp 1 (6300m).
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Views from Camp 1.
Above Camp 1, toward Camp 2.
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View between Camps 1 and 2.
Lhotse (left) and Everest (right) seen
before reaching Camp 2.
Me between Camps 1 and 2.
Camp 2 (6750m).
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View from Camp 2.
Above Camp 2 toward Makalu La ...
Despite my disappointment for not reaching a higher
elevation, I learned a lot on Makalu, especially about my physical limitations
(and how to assess them), the need to be self-sufficient at any one time, and
the wisdom of going at my own pace according to my own schedule. The lessons
from Makalu have helped me in many of my following trips.
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