Traverse of Central and Eastern Nepal
(2011)
Leg 16: From Tumlingtar to Khang La and
Tharpu (May 9-19)
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From Tumlingtar (500m) we trekked directly to to the village of
Dobhan (775m) on the Tamur river (just below Taplejung), through the small town
of Chainpur and across the Milke Danda (pass at 3000m). We then followed the
Tamur river through the villages of Sinwa and Chirwa. In Hellok, we switched to
the Simbua Khola that we followed up to Torongdin and then Tseram (3870m). From
Tseram, we went to Khang La (5054m) at the border with Sikkim/India, and back.
That was the end point of my traverse of Nepal. But three more days of trekking
were needed to reach the road at Tharpu (1340m). From Tharpu a car drove us to Birtamod.
Because of its low elevation and the presence of the Arun river,
the region around Tumlingtar is often foggy in the morning (I had the same
experience in the spring of 2008 at the beginning of my trip to
Makalu). These are two photos taken upon leaving
Tumlingtar in the early morning.


Fording the Sabha Khola (an affluent
of the Arun river) soon after leaving Tumlingtar

Across a small village on our way to Chainpur

Man in this village

Main street of Chainpur. Note the pavement. Chainpur is a very
nice small town with many traditional houses and artisans.

Two Limbu women near Chainpur. They carry a lot of gold!


Typical houses


Cimetery in a village below Milke Danda

We crossed Milke Danda at a 3000m pass, where there is a
settlement used by Tibetan traders

The 5-star lodge where we spent the night at the
pass, and its owner


Man and woman crushing millet (used to prepare a local beer) along
the Tamur river before Sinwa

Village along the Tamur river

Bazaar village of Sinwa

Large bougainvillea in Sinwa

Village of Chirwa, as it suddenly appears after a turn of the
trail

Limbu woman neal Hellok

Near Hellok three rivers (Yangma, Ghunsa, and Simbua) joined to
form the Tamur river. We started following the Simbua Khola that takes its
source from the Yalung glacier at the foot of Kanchenjunga. We followed Simbua
Khola up to Tseram. This photo of Simbua Khola was taken from Hellok.

Between Hellok and Torongdin the trail along Simbua Khola
traverses dense forests. It is small and sometimes difficult to follow.

Tea house in Torongdin

The valley of Simbua Khola between Torongdin and Tseram

Lodge in Tseram (most trekkers and climbers stop there on their
way to and from Kangchenjunga)

On our way to Zhang La

Zhang La (in background) at the border with India, the end point
of my traverse of Nepal

Leeches along the trail on our way down from Torongdin to
Yamphudin. It had much rain on that day and leeches were out in large number.

Posters on a local house

An amazing trail on our way down to Khabeli Khola before reaching
Tharpu




Porters along this trail


Lapa Apa, Thsering, Kabirajhaba, and Pemba at the
very end of the trek in Tharpu
