A Tour of Northern Humla, Nepal (September-October 2014)
Stage 4: Takchhe to Dzang and Halji
After returning to Takchhe we entered the beautiful valley of Limi Khola. This valley is one of the least accessible Nepali valleys, as all its accesses require crossing a high pass that is impractical during most of the year. The valley is populated by ethnic Tibetan people spread over three villages: Dzang, Halji and Til. They raise large herds of yaks, horses, and sheep, and grow potatoes and various cereals (buckwheat, barley and millet) in terraced fields. Although the Limi villages look medieval, their people are surprisingly savvy about the world outside their valley through trade (and radio). Some own a house in Kathmandu and regularly go there to supervise their trading operations.
The snowstorm stroke us on October 14th around 1am. It led us to spend two nights in the hospitable village of Dzang.
6034m peak at the entrance of the Limi valley, seen during the descent from the Tibetan plateau.
Our camp in Tholing. Tholing is a recent small settlement connected to Tibet by the new Chinese-made ″road″. A couple of shops sale goods imported from China to herders (unfortunately a lot of alcohol). From Tholing a degraded road goes further down into the Limi valley to the village Dzang.
About 2 hours beyond Tholing, there is a nice hot spring where we stopped and put a new camp. For the first time since we had left Simikot we washed ourselves and did some laundry.
On that day (October 13th) the weather was still sunny, but new types of clouds appeared in the afternoon signaling bad weather ahead.
Thanks to the new clouds, the late-afternoon light was particularly beautiful ...
... but as we had suspected the snow started falling during the night. People from the Dzang village came in the morning to collect some of their animals.
Initially, we decided to wait for better weather. However, in the afternoon there was yet no sign that the snow fall would abate any time soon. As the snow layer was getting thicker (about 70cm), we decided to lift our camp and move down to the Dzang village. In fact, it snowed until late morning on the next day. But, thanks to the yaks that had returned to the village, we had a reasonably good track on our way down.
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In the Dzang village, a wonderful family offered us to stay in their house.
The two Dawa′s and Kalu enjoying cups of Tibetan tea (first) and glasses of buckwheat alcohol (next).
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Our host, Tenju Utur Lama, and his son (right). They own a house in Kathmandu near the Buddhanath and are building a new one.
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Tenju Utur Lama′s wife, daughter, and small grand-daughter in their kitchen/dining room.
Tenju Utur Lama′s wife and her impressive stove.
Decorations in the dining room. The paintings were done by an artist from the Til village further down in the Limi valley.
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Other sections of the house.
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Collection of horse harnesses.
Village of Dzang on the next morning.
As soon as the snow fall started abating, the entire village removed snow from the flat roofs. It was like a village-wide choreographic event.
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Leaving Dzang on October 16th.
Again, we were greatly helped by the yak-made tracks in the snow.
Thanks to the fresh snow, the valley was magnificent.
Reaching Halji, just around the corner behind the chorten.
