Too Much Snow
in Khumbu (October 2013)
Map (the itinerary is shown in blue
dotted line):
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My initial plan was to do the classical ′′Three
Passes′′ trek (crossing Kongma La, Cho
La, and Renjo La), plus the ascents of Chhukung Ri and Gokyo Ri. This was supposed to
be an easy, straightforward trek, which must not be confused with the much
more demanding ′′Three
Cols′′ trek (Sherpani Col, West
Col, and Amphu Lapsta).
But 4 days into the trek, upon reaching Dingboche,
snow started falling and did not stop for almost 3 days. There was then too
much snow to cross any of the 3 passes and I did not have enough time to
wait. Instead, I followed more traveled trails where yaks were tracing good
tracks in the deep snow. This led me to Kala Patthar,
which I climbed for the 3rd time (first in the 70s, next in the
90s). On my way back to Lukla, I crossed Kongde
Ridge from Thame to Phakding. This relatively little traveled ridge offers
spectacular views over the Khumbu valley and many of its surrounding peaks. A nice consequence of the long snow fall was that
the mountains were particularly beautiful for several days. (Click on the map on the right to get a larger
version of it in a separate tab.) |
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Partial
View of Namche Bazar with Kongde Ri
(6168m) in the background.
Chorten
above Namche Bazar.
View
of Lhotse (8516m) from the ridge above Namche Bazar. (More photos of Lhotse.)
Village of Khumjung.
View
of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam
(from left to right) from the trail between Namche Bazar and Tengboche. (More photos of Everest,
of Lhotse,
and of Ama Dablam.)
Ama
Dablam (6812m).
Gompa of Tengboche
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Taboche (6542m) on the left and
Cholatse (6440m) soon before the snow fall. (More photos of Tabuche and Cholatse.)
Snow
dunes near Chhukung after the snow fall.
Fabulous Lhotse seen from Chhukung.
(More photos of Lhotse.)
Yaks tracing their way into the snow below Chhukung.
Ama
Dablam seen from between Chhukung
and Dengboche. (More photos of Ama Dablam.)
Lhotse
(left), Island Peak (center) and the Dingboche terrasses.
Taboche and Cholatse
after the snow fall. (More photos of Tabuche and Cholatse.)
Peak Lobuche (6119m).
Pumori
(7161m). (More photos of Pumori.) The small hill below Pumori is Kala Patthar (5643m)!
At the top of Kala Patthar.
During the descent from the settlement of Lobuche toward Pheriche.
During
our descent we crossed many yaks carrying hay for other yaks at higher
elevation.
Porters
near Namche Bazar on the
way back.
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Intimidating
yaks along the way.
Sea
buckthorn berries.
Impeyen
pheasant, the national bird of Nepal.
Motivating recycling by example.
Shiny
red peppers.
Thyangmoche
(6500m) on the left and Thame gompa
on the right.
Sunrise
behind Thamserku (6608m) seen from Thame. (More photos of Thamserku.)
Small village of Pare before ascending Kongde Ridge.
A steep (and icy) section of the climb to Kondge Ridge, with my guide-porter Gyangjo
Lama.
View
from Kongde Ridge over Namche
Bazar and Khumbu peaks.
