Toward Abdukagor Pass


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After our interrupted attempt to cross the Fedchenko Glacier from the east, we quickly (in only 2 days) drove to Poimazar village at the end of the Vanch valley (a place that I had already visited in 2009). Our goal was to reach the Fedchenko glacier through Abdukagor pass (5054m), at the top of the Abdukador glacier. Unfortunately, by lack of time and because the Abdukagor glacier was much more broken than expected, we ended our ascent slightly below the pass, again without reaching the Fedchenko glacier. Nevertheless, the ascent was worth doing, thanks to the magnificent sceneries around the Abdukagor glacier.


Topographic map: road access in green dots, trekking route in red dots.


Vanch valley near Poimazar.


Around Poimazar village.



Our trek started at the last bridge across the Vanch river near the RGS glacier. The local truck that drove us from Poimazar to this bridge had to cross a couple of streams on the way, like the one below.



The lower end of the RGS glacier.


Ponds near the bridge over the Vanch river.



The upper Vanch valley (view toward the north).


Reaching the relatively small Bear (not sure about the name) glacier.


Crossing the glacier: first photo, Victor; next, myself, Alexei, and Maksim (from left to right).



Other views of the Bear glacier.



Other views toward the north. The highest peak in the background is Mt. Garmo (6602m). An old road (from the Soviet time) is visible on the left side of the valley. It used to lead to a now abandoned quartz mine.



For a while the trail was an alternation or rocky and grassy terrain.


Our first camp in a rather nice spot.


The abandoned quartz mine.


Looking south before turning left toward Abdukagor glacier.


Our second camp.


Reaching the base of Abdukagor glacier.


Along the lower section of the glacier. (I took the third and fourth pictures below during our descent.)





One of our camps near the glacier on a small patch of grass.


Alexei, Maksim and Victor enjoying their dinner.


Peaks along the Abdukagor glacier.






Interesting garnet-colored rock along the way.


By far my favorite climbing position (at a lunch rest).


Eating pure fat may sound disgusting to many, but it gives much needed energy.


On the upper part of the glacier.






Higher on the glacier we occasionally used ropes.



More views.






Our last camp below Abdukagor pass.


Evening view from the camp.


On the last day of climbing. Our camp visible is at the center of the first photo.




One last view before starting our descent back to Poimazar.



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