Pamir (Summer 2010):

Tanymas river and Abdukagor glacier

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My goal during this trip was to cross the Fedchenko glacier from East (Tanymas river) to West (Vanch valley). Unfortunately, several unexpected difficulties along the Tanymas river led me to decide to interrupt this traverse and, instead, to try the ascent Fedchenko glacier from the West through the Abdukagor pass. So, this trip ended up being made of two parts: a trek along Tanymas river on the east side of Fedchenko glacier and a climb of Abdukagor glacier on the west side. In retrospect, I regret somewhat my decision to interrupt the traverse. Relatively difficult trips should never be done under tight time constraints.

My travel party included three Russian-Uzbek climbers from Tashkent (Victor, Maxim, and Alexei). I had already traveled with Victor in 2009 and with Maxim in 2004 and 2008. Like for all my previous trips to Central Asia (2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009), the difficult logistics was arranged by Boris Karpov.

Victor, Maxim, and Alexei

Map: road travel in red and trek areas in black.