Taplejung to Jiri
(October-November 2012):
8. Hongu basin to Namche across Amphu Lapsta (3 days)
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The day following our crossing of Sherpani
and West Cols we did a relatively short hike across moraines of the Hongu basin and moved our camp to the base of Amphu Lapsta col, where we spent our last night in a tent. The next
day we crossed Amphu Lapsta
(5845m) and reached Chukhung, where we slept in a
lodge. We hiked to Namche in one more day. The
ascent to Amphu Lapsta
was particularly beautiful, with ice and snow forming an unusual staged
arrangement of terraces. The descent from the pass offered stunning views
over Lhotse (8414m) and its surrounding glaciers. However, there were three
large guided groups crossing Amphu Lapsta on the same day as us, who had arrived from
Mera La. So, there were too many people on the
pass. Fortunately, Nyima Gyaltshen
left very early in the morning to set up a rope for the descent and our much
smaller group was able to complete the crossing ahead of the other groups. |
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Across the moraines of the Hongu basin,
with Amphu Lapsta in
the background.
The ice and snow ′terraces′ on the way up to Amphu Lapsta.
View over
Lhotse (8414m) from Amphu Lapsta.
Looking back at the Hongu basin from the
pass.
The steep descent from Amphu Lapsta.
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Another view of Lhotse, with Island peak (6189m) barely
distinguishable in the foreground.
Cholatse (6335m) seen from the Chukhung
valley.
A nice smiling face in Chukhung.
Summit of Ama Dablam lit by the morning sun
as seen below Chukhung.
Lhotse in the morning sun while descending from Chukhung toward Pangboche.
A more classical view of Ama Dablam from Somare.
Mountain goat along the trail.
Since the
beginning of this trip, we had seen very few porters (except our own). Reaching
the main trails of Khumbu brings back familiar scenes
of porters carrying all kinds of odd loads.
High peaks
seen through low clouds before reaching Namche.
Upon reaching Namche, it became obvious that we were back to
civilization. The hottest items on sale in the streets were TP (left), kleenex (middle) and tampax (right)!
In the evening
we celebrated our success on the 3 cols in the lodge of Ang
Karma′s cousin, over whisky and coke, and an unusually rich dal bhat.
On the next
day all members of the group, except Ang Karma, Lhakpa, and me, descended to Lukla.
Some returned to Kathmandu immediately. Others visited their families in their
native villages of Solu. Ang
Karma, Lhakpa, and I spent a day of rest in Namche. On the following day, Ang
Karma hiked down to Lukla and flew back to Kathmandu.
Lhakpa and I started final 5-day trek to Jiri.
Other parts of the trek:
1.
Taplejung to Olangchun Gola (4 days)
2. Olangchun Gola (1 day)
3. Crossing
Lumba Samba pass (3 days)
4. Tudham to Hongon (3 days)
5. Hongon to Yangla Kharka (5 days)
6. Yangla Kharka to Sherpani Col High Camp (4 days)
7. Crossing
of Sherpani and West Cols (1 day)
8. Hongu basin to Namche across Amphu Lapsta (3 days)
9. Namche to Jiri (5 days)