Ladakh and Jammu & Kashmir, India (August-September 2022):

Trek south of Pangong Tso; visit of Srinagar and gompas around Leh

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Situation map (northwest India).

Map

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[Note: I did not outline the boundaries between countries, because almost all them are disputed by India, Pakistan, and China.]

 

The main purpose of my trip to Ladakh in August-September 2022 was to do a trek in a portion of the Ladakh Range, south of Pangong Tso (in the ˝Trek Area˝ outlined in the map above). The trek I had planned consists of two distinct sections:

 

- The first and longest one (shown in red dotted line in the map below) crosses three passes: Yogma La (5600m), Steansi La (5600m), and Gun La (5650m). It starts at the hamlet of Chibra (marked 1) and ends at the village of Kherapdu (marked 5).

 

- The second section (in purple dotted line) crosses a double pass (5720m and 5930m with a small gap in-between). It starts at the un-named location marked 6 and ends in the village of Kumdak (marked 7). However, bad weather at the start of this second section led me to cancel it.

 

Map

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[Source: 1:150,000 map of Ladakh & Zanskar, Editions Olizane, Switzerland.]

[Note: The itinerary in red (first section of the trek) is not exactly the one that I had planned, but the one that was actually done. The main difference between the two itineraries is the ascent path to reach Steansi La, as will be explained later. The green triangles indicate the locations of our successive campsites.]

 

I used the days that I had planned for the second section of the trek to travel to Srinagar in Jammu & Kashmir, which I had wanted to visit on previous trips to Ladakh but had not found time to do.

 

In addition, I had planned acclimatization days prior to the trek and reserve days after the trek. I eventually used these days to visit (or re-visit) several Tibetan Buddhist monasteries (gompas) around Leh.

 

Like in 2016, 2018, and 2019, the logistics for this trip (support team, transportation, accommodation, food supplies...) was expertly arranged by Sonam Dawa, the owner and manager of Adventure Travel Mark. Over the years, Sonam Dawa has become a very good friend and I greatly enjoy staying at his home in Choglamsar, next to Leh. During the 2020-2021 peak of the Covid crisis, rather than giving up, he further developed his cheese-making facility in the village of Shagar, near Padum (Zanskar). He produces tommes made out from milk of dzomo (female hybrid between yak and domestic cattle), which have reached perfection. Their sales now help supporting the dwindling Zanskari yak-breeding economy. In 2022 Sonam Dawa opened a new, beautiful homestay (the Zanskar Courtyard) near Padum in Zanskar: see here.

 

Click on the links (or photos) below to see pictures of the various parts of this trip.

 

Trek 1/3: Crossing of Yogma La

 

 

Trek 2/3: Crossing of Steansi La

 

Trek 3/3: Crossing of Gun La

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Srinagar

 

 

Leh and around

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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